Climbing
Advanced
ROCK CLIMBING BOLTED AND TRAD WITH ALEX LUGER 2 DAYS
Two day rock climbing workshop with Alex Luger. First day technical and tactical skills for multipitch climbing with building an anchor. On the second day we will do a multipitch climb with around 5 pitches and grade min 6b.
Who is Alex?
Alex has been climbing from a very early age. He grew up in a climbing family, where vacations took place at famous rock climbing destinations like Arco, Finale, or the Verdon Gorge. At eleven years old Alex became fully connected with the sport, and this connection still has a huge impact on his life.
“It felt natural to be in these surroundings, on the big rock faces in the Verdon,” explained Alex, “the simplicity of escaping a threatening situation made me happy and satisfied. At this point climbing became more important than skateboarding or playing any other games.”
Alex has fulfilled his boyhood ambition of becoming as strong as his father. His incredible ticklist of climbs – from 8b+ traditional routes with huge run-outs through to WI6+ ice climbs and 8c+ sport routes – places Luger in the top 0.1% of climbers operating in the world today. Known for his hard new routes with minimal gear and no bolts, Luger puts this bold style down to his upbringing.
“I still feel very privileged to have grown up in a climbing community with values and respect for the history of our region. Very early in my climbing career, I was in touch with ethics and saw lots of different motivations why people climb. My way of climbing has been influenced by my surroundings- the physical landscape and the people.”
Meet your clinic’s athlete
Alex Luger
Growing up as a climber in a climbing family, in a nation dominated by the Alps, meant Austria’s Alex Luger has always asked: is there anything left? Are there “king lines” left on the large walls of the Northern Limestone Alps, for someone who hungers for challenge to test himself against? Gaining admiration as a powerful all round climber since he was in his early twenties, Alex climbed his way through a Sports Science degree gaining enough sponsorships before he’d graduated that he was climbing professionally straight out of University. He found those king lines and climbed them according to the ethic that made the experience the most fulfilling to him: from the ground up, without scouting from above, using trad gear and natural protection as much as possible. It might take years, as it did for him to complete The Gift, but that is suitable recognition that rock is a finite resource; there is not an endless source of cool lines; it’s okay to preserve something for the next generation. Alex appreciates the way climbing is an opportunity to encounter yourself, and other people, operating beyond the comfort zone – a telling place, and one that is deeply engaging for a philosopher-king who is far more afraid of being in a shopping mall on Black Friday than dangling in the wild exposure of Patagonia or the Rätikon.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Clinics
Are the clinics for experts or can beginners come too?
We have clinics for all levels, so you are bound to find something suited to you. Our guides have a wealth of knowledge and skills that they love to share, so read the clinic descriptions carefully and find one that is in line with your level of fitness, skill, and experience. Also worth noting is that not all of our clinics are physical; many of them are educational and focus on topics such as mountain safety, environmental impact, photography and so on.
How do I know if I have the right level for the clinic that I want to do?
Each clinic has a detailed description on the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy website. It will include a section detailing fitness and experience requirements, it is very important that you read this part carefully and are honest about your level of fitness and experience before signing up to the clinic. If you sign up to a clinic beyond your ability or skill-set you will at the least hinder your group, and at the worst you will endanger people.
When will I be able to book clinics?
The registration will open from March 27, 2024 at 5pm CET (Central European Time). To be able to proceed quickly through check-out, it will be helpful to inform yourself on clinics prior to this date, and also read the Terms and Conditions.
Can children attend?
All our clinics are for adults only, 18 years and older.
There is a lot to discover for children within our Alpine Village, for example challenging themselves at the bouldering wall, creating an piece at the sewing machine or applying a logo with a heat press. All those offers and many more have no age limitations.
What should I bring?
Each clinic has a downloadable detailed equipment list that you will be sent prior to the event. Please bring everything that is listed. Some of the mountaineering equipment is available for rent, please check with local shops for availability and prices. We highly advise to pre-book anything that you may need in case the shop only has limited stock. In the Alpine Village, you will find also demo gear from Arc’teryx (Hardshells, harnesses) and CAMP (ice tools, crampons, belay devices, lanyards, helmets). First come, first serve.
Do I need to bring my own climbing gear?
We recommend you bring your own equipment to use on the clinics. Please label it clearly so it is easily identifiable at the end of the day. Please note we do not take responsibility for lost equipment or kit that is left behind.
Will I need a lift pass?
This depends on the clinics that you have signed up to, you will receive information on this prior to the event.
When do I have to arrive?
This depends on the start time of your clinic; if your clinic is due to start on Thursday evening, for example, you can arrive any time on Thursday afternoon. If you are planning to arrive on the day of your clinic, please respect the meeting time and arrive prepared with all your equipment as described in the clinic description, allowing for any possible transport delays.
To make the most of your experience, please anticipate some acclimatization time, depending where you arrive from. Chamonix is located at 1000m of altitude, many clinics will take place way above 3500m. Some clinics will also have a compulsory pre-meeting the night before, be sure to check this in the clinic description.
What are the start / finish times of the clinics?
Each clinic has specific meeting time which is stated within the full clinic descriptions. In general, the meetings are between 7:00 – 8:30 am. Some clinics also have a pre-briefing meeting the day before; please plan your stay accordingly.Unless you signed up for an overnight clinic, you should be back at the Alpine Village by 4:00 pm.
What happens to my clinic participation, if the weather is bad?
In case of bad weather, we will change the location of the clinic. Please note that we will not cancel the clinic you are booked on, we will automatically propose a plan B. The Chamonix Valley is located right on the borders of Italy and Switzerland and the weather is often different over there. However, please bring your waterproofs to be comfortable in case of rain. Please have your passport and every necessary entry permit with you.
Do you provide food & drinks during clinics?
We do not organise food and drinks on the clinics. However, there are plenty of local bakeries where you can easily buy freshly made sandwiches, quiches, etc. There are also a few grocery stores that sell snacks, dried fruit and drinks. If you stay in a mountain hut, you will be served breakfast and dinner. You can also order a packed lunch for the next day (cash payment only).
Do I need a car during the event?
You do not need a car for the event. Transport to the clinic will be organised by us and will either be in your guide’s car, in a minibus, or on local public transport.